Jeff Nebel
The last Board Meeting was held on September 9th at Wrico Stamping Co., Menomonee Falls, WI
Treasurer: Liz Rohde reported a net inflow of $728.28 for the period 7/30 through 9/7/99 due to workshops, raffle and refreshments.
Holiday Season Dinner Party: Liz Rohde reported that the Holiday Season Dinner Party is still a go at "Zorba's". There is a new owner and some remodeling is taking place but we are told that the same menu selection and same price as last year will prevail. (See reservation form elsewhere in this issue.)
Logfest: Bruce Bogust report that the Logfest is a go. Plans are being made for log pick-up. We are looking for an auctioneer. (See Logfest elsewhere is this issue.)
Toys: Ron Hinderman queried the Board about the toy wheel distribution. He was informed that the Guild had bought a large quantity last year and each member can purchase them, at the Guildís cost.
Workshops: Bob Vincent reported that the EAA tour is back under consideration. He proposed the formation of informal Special Interest Groups (SIGs), persons who have similar interests, to hold some informal gatherings next year. The Board affirmed that a member 'reporter' can attend a workshop without fee, providing he/she is not participating. If one participates in a workshop, one pays.
Fillinger Event: 40 members have paid so far. There are plenty of volunteers to exhibit and enter contests. Rich Sitzes will reschedule some of the major seminars so they are available in the morning and afternoon.
Publications: Si Farmer reported that the trifold draft is done. Some suggested modifications were made. They will be ready by the Fillinger Event.
Membership: There is serious concern about this area of the Guild because membership renewal time is almost here and the Membership Chair is currently undergoing treatment for a serious illness. It was agreed that anyone joining the Guild at the Fillinger Event, at full fee, would receive membership through the year 2000.
Old Business
Nominating Committee: John Petrovic has not yet appointed a Nominating Committee Chairman.
Equipment Insurance: A member reported that his insurance carrier would only cover the Guildís audio equipment while it is on his property. The secretary will make inquire with the carrier that insures the Guild for liability.
New Business
Woodworker of Year: Walt Hadcock has volunteered to chair this committee for 1999.
Next Board Meeting: Tuesday, October 19, 7:00 pm at M&I Data Services,
Brown Deer, WI.
(Items in bold are Guild sponsored)
For Sale:
Fine woodworking Magazine issues 1 thru 107 with two issues missing,
$200.00, or best offer.
Jerry Veenendaal 782-1608
Rich Sitzes
The big day, Saturday, October 30th is fast approaching. The store will be open from 8 am till 4:30 pm, but the Wisconsin Woodworkers Guild activities will run from 9 am until 2 pm, at which time judging and awards will be the rule of the day.
Tours
There will be several tours. Group 1 will be from 9 - 10:30 am and Group
2 from 10:45 am till 12:15 pm. Participants will meet in Bldg. #2. From
12:30 till 1:00 pm there will be lunch and good fellowship (cabinet shops).
Group 3 tour (if needed) will be from 1:00 till 2:00 pm.
Judging and Awards
The judging and Awards for Woodworking Show Case will be at 2:00 pm.
Seminars
John Deady will present two Mountain Dulcimer seminars in the Fillinger
Conference Room. The first one will be from 9:30 till 10:45 am and the second
one will be from 1:00 till 2:00 pm. These seminars will be limited to 10
- 15 persons per seminar. Learn how to build your own mountain dulcimer, and
the techniques can be used in all of your woodworking.
Tim Sampson will be giving two Veneering seminars in the Fillinger Lower Showroom. The first will be from 10:45 am till 12:00 pm. The second will be from 1:00 till 2:00 pm. These will be a free-style seminar on veneering, by one of the worldís leading manufacturers of fine veneers. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity that many of us amateur woodworkers to get first-hand lessons on veneering. These seminars will be limited to 15 - 25 persons per session.
Demonstrations
Our own Guild members will be presenting demonstrations in Pen Turning
(Dick Yezek), Wood Christmas Ornaments (Liz Rohde), Marquetry (Pete Kolettis),
Intarsia (Gerald Tackes), Chip Carving (Klaus Zunker), and Hand Dovetails
(Bob Vincent).
Vendors
Vendors from Porter Cable, Milwaukee Electric Tool, Bosch Power Tools,
Freud, Inc., Jet Power Tools, Rawl Fasteners, 3-M (sandpaper), General
Finishes, Pratt Lambert Stain & Finish, Bessey Clamps, Western Building
Products, Semco Windows, Vega Enterprise and Hafele will be there that
day to demonstrate their latest products.
Tickets
A large portion of the lunch expense is being subsidized by Fillinger.
To get the tour and lunch, you must have a ticket ($5) which you can purchase
from Rich Sitzes at the next meeting (best) or at the door the day of the
event, if you donít get to the meeting.
Contest
Remember, get your contest entry by the deadline if you want to compete
for the $1000 in prizes. Deadline for entries is October 8th!!!!!
Art Paque
Carl Widder treated Guild members to a thorough and enjoyable presentation about wood finishing on August 14th. Carl generously shared his talents and time with us. It was a full morning and stretched into the early afternoon. Thank you for the delicious assortment of treats and beverages, Carl; we wouldnít have been able to keep up with you without them.
We started off with an outline of the finishing process; beginning with: surface preparation, finish application, stains, fillers, sealers, clear top-coats, finishing the finish, and as a separate item, stripping the finish. Carl demonstrated many of the finishes and the techniques to apply them. This was especially beneficial. The discussion was confined to hand applied finishes.
Several books were offered as references and guides for finishing; "Hand Applied Finishes", Jeff Jewitt (There is an OUTSTANDING video by the same title and author in the WWG library.); "Understanding Wood Finishing", Bob Flexner; and "The Wood Finishing Book", Michael Dresdner. All of these are highly recommended.
Surface preparation is imperative, especially when staining. Stain will magnify sanding errors. Finishes which are absorbed by the wood (stains and some oils) need fine preparation; the surface must be perfect. NO scratch marks!
There is a choice in smoothing the surface, planing vs. sanding; or, in other words; cutting vs. abrading. A plane or scraper will not raise grain or leave "fuzzies" as sandpaper does. Sanding is however the more common approach. Begin sanding with no higher than 100 grit paper and progress upwards until the level of fineness desired is reached.
Sanding is not as critical for projects that are not going to be stained. They may need no more than a final sanding with 150 grit, a hardwood such as maple would call for 220. The guide to remember is; the finer the finish, the finer the surface prep. An exceptional finish may make it necessary to go up to 600 grit paper.
Finishes are applied in two different ways; brushes or lint-free rags. There are three types of brushes, natural ("china") bristle, synthetic bristle, and sponge. Rags, such as lint-free cotton from a t-shirt work well for wipe on oils and stains. The lint-free paper "rags" such as Wipe Alls also work well. Do not use kitchen paper towels.
When applying a finish by brush, choose synthetic bristles for water based finishes; natural bristle is the choice for solvent based finishes; and either type can be used for lacquer. Foam brushes are great for water based products. Foam is the best choice in this category. Plus, they are cheaper and easier to use than bristle brushes. A reminder, never use a brush that has been used for paint to apply a clear coat. (Reports indicate that the results can be disastrous.)
A rag may be messier than a brush when applying stain, but it is a more cautious method. The amount of stain being put on the piece can be controlled more carefully and if too much has been put on, it can be wiped off immediately.
Stains fall into two categories, pigmented (about 90% of stains) and dyes. Dyes are classified by which solvent will dissolve them. They are, water soluble, alcohol soluble, and oil soluble (also NGR, nongrain raising) dyes. Pigmented stains due to their solids content tend to obscure the wood grain, particularly with multiple coats. Dyes will not obscure the grain, but are not as color fast as pigmented stains.
Softer, open pore woods, such as pine and birch, will absorb more stain and turn out darker than harder or closed grain woods. A pre-stain or wood conditioner would be in order to obtain a more even and controlled application of stain. Pre-stain should also be used on end grain to aid in uniform staining throughout the piece.
There are differences in pigmented stains, two examples are Minwax and Carver Tripp. Minwax stains are relatively thin, fine pigmented stains; hence they are not able to stain very dark. Carver Tripp by contrast is thick and heavily pigmented; its intensity of color is controlled by removal of the excess stain from the piece. Application and timing of removal are important to uniform results. It takes longer to put it on than it does to wipe it off. The last area stained tends to have stain on it the shortest amount of time; and may turn out lighter than the first part stained.
Stains are available in gel form. They tend to stay "on the wood" as opposed to going "into the wood". They are easy to control and a good choice where consistent color is a high priority.
Fillers are used after staining when a flat smooth, glass-like finish is desired for an open pored wood. Oak, walnut, and mahogany are examples. While oil, pumice and shellac, and water based fillers are available; Carl was short and to the point. "Just buy Behlenís Pore-O-Pac." It is available in a few colors, can be mixed, or else can be tinted. It is brushed on, scraped off at an angle across the grain, and sanded lightly.
A sealer is applied before putting on a top coat. The sealer holds the stain in place so a crisp clean top coat finish can be obtained. (Most stains are pigmented and the top coat may lift some of the pigment into itself and muddy the final result.) Sanding sealer sands easily and fast and seals the stain in. Thinned shellac makes a good sanding sealer. Sealing is necessary only if stain or filler have been used.
Clear top coats, like the previous items, fall into categories; on the wood, in and on the wood, and in the wood. Shellac and most water based top coats are "on the wood" finishes. Lacquers and varnishes belong in the "in and on the wood" class. Some of the oil type top coats are "in the wood" products. The different types of top coats are in the order of increasing care needed to apply them with good results. Condition your brush before starting, do this by wetting the brush with the solvent used with the finish, mineral spirits, water, alcohol, etc.
Boiled linseed oil is perhaps the easiest finish to apply. It is applied, allowed to be absorbed, and the excess rubbed off. It can wear off and must be renewed periodically. Danish oil and tung oil are essentially linseed oil with added driers such as japan drier. Watco is an example of this type of finish. Watco will not "build" though other similar products will. They should be applied in multiple thin coats and be denibbed between coats.
Brushing lacquer (Deft is the best known brand) is an easy to use, fast drying product. You may remember it from your school days in shop class. It is easy to build a gloss finish with brushing lacquer. If a satin finish is desired, use gloss coats for all but the final coat. Semi-gloss or satin finishes reduce clarity.
Wiping varnish (General Finishing, Sealacell) is basically a diluted varnish with tung oil added. This product will build a little bit and the gloss will increase with additional coats (3-4). This is a wipe on, leave on product.
Shellac is an often overlooked and underrated finish. It has many advantages; among them, fast drying, durable, some color, easy to build, very easy to repair, and nontoxic. It is damaged by alcohol and has a shelf life of 6-12 months after being mixed.
Brushing varnish offers a hard durable finish which can be built. Solvent based varnishes are available in the traditional and polyurethane forms. They are the same except that the latter is harder. Varnish must be denibbed between coats (320 grit). It also needs to be sanded to provide a good mechanical bond between layers. Solvent varnish is slow drying, so it levels well, but dust problems are common.
Water based polyurethane varnish has advantages over the solvent type, it dries fast, lower odor, and lower volatile organics. It must be stirred carefully, foam and bubbles are problems, and it builds slowly. When using water based varnish, wet the workpiece, let dry, and sand to raise the grain before finishing.
The last step is "finishing the finish". Traditionally pumice and rottenstone have been used to rub out the finish to a satin and then gloss polish. Wax is then applied as a protective coat. Auto rubbing compounds are also used with a cloth pad to achieve a deep polish before waxing. (Goddardís and Briwax are two popular brands of wax. Colored waxes are also available.) When working with water based products, do not use steel wool, any particles left behind will rust. In its place use the synthetic pads. Their color indicates the equivalent grit; maroon 250, grey 400, and white 700.
Stripping old finishes is messy and not without hazard, but sometimes the piece is worth the effort. If it is a fine piece choose the stripper carefully. Read and follow the instructions for these products! Do not use any of the caustic strippers (Peel Away), they are fast and powerful, and will discolor and may damage the wood. Veneers are especially vulnerable.
Methyl chloride strippers work well on painted surfaces, are non-flammable and can be rinsed off with solvents or water. (Keep all of the water issues in mind.) They will melt many synthetic materials and will burn skin quickly if in contact.
The solvent strippers are fast and work well on old finishes; they are the least harsh with veneer and fragile pieces. They are extremely flammable!
Safest Stripper (3M) is safe, but very, very slow and not very strong.
It is water based and will raise the grain. Citri-Strip is another alternative;
with its own pluses and minuses. It is very slow drying. Some people get
severe headaches from it.
Jay Hollingsworth opened his new shop in Twin Lakes, WI to the Guild on August 14th. He has a well-equipped shop that is capable of doing just about any woodworking job. He does a lot of cabinet type work at the present time.
He just moved into the shop recently, and already he is expanding ? the woodworker that shared the space is now relocating ? which will give Jay adequate room for his own growing business. (Jay says his professional work just ëevolvesí. Of course, his architectural background brings a whole new dimension to this ëevolutioní.
This photo illustrates the large sander that Jay made available on that
day for Guild members to sand large panels, etc. Jay will be treating the
Guild at the October meeting in his presentation on The Design and Construction
of Cabinets. In addition, he is giving two workshops in October at his shop
on The Construction of a Shop Cabinet. We are fortunate to have many qualified
and willing woodworkers in the Guild, and Jay is certainly one of them.
Thanx, Jay
One of the most important benefits provided by our Guild is the opportunity we have each year to give something back to the community by making toys and distributing them to local battered women shelters. Helping out folks in need certainly isnít a new concept, nor is it limited to organizations such as ours. We are very fortunate, however, to be able to provide happiness to others simply by doing an activity that we all enjoy, woodworking. And there are very few community enrichment activities that one can perform from the comfort of their own shop. If you have not started making a toy for this yearís toy drive, I strongly encourage you to pause for a moment and give this Guild activity another long thought.
There is still plenty of time left to participate, but the calendar is
rapidly approaching December. Making a toy will give you the pleasure and
satisfaction that you receive from woodworking, but more importantly it
will provide happiness and hope to a child in a difficult situation this
holiday season.
Gene Theiler, Facilities Chairman, has informed the RIPSAW that there will be light in the parking lot for the upcoming Guild Meeting at the Washington Park Senior Center. It seems that the Park Commission was remiss in resetting the time clocks after a black-out two meeting ago. Gene got to the bottom of the problem, corrected it, and even promised to turn the lights on himself, if necessary.
Thanx, Gene.
The date has been set for the log fest. It will be Saturday, October 9. On that day we will be sawing some logs and auctioning off lumber. The location is, 17440 W. College, in Muskego. We will be picking up logs one or two weeks prior to th log fest. If you have logs to donate, notify Bruce Bogust. The number of logs will determine when we will pick up. The optimum length for the logs is 8 to 10 feet.
We may need some help on a Saturday picking up the logs. If you would like to help call, Bruce Bogust. If you have logs that you would like to cut up for yourself, we will still pick them up but you will be charged $40 per hour, This is $20 less than the normal charge. You will be asked to donate one board to the auction.
We will have a sign up sheet at the October meeting. We will need to know
how many are coming since we will be providing soda. You will need to bring
your own lunch.
Leila Crandall-Frink
The planned program was cancelled due to the illness of the wife of the scheduled presenter. We were fortunate to have John Petrovic, our Guild President, who spoke and demonstrated Planing Wood by Hand. For someone who had only 24 hours notice that he was giving the program, John did a great job. We give a thank you John, from the Guild. We were informed that the program committee would attempt to arrange the planned presenter for a different meeting.
We have had presenters who talked about sharpening and tuning planes. John told us how to use the planes when the sharpening is done and they are tuned. Folks tend to use all power or all hand tools when doing woodworking. More people are now using hand tools for finish work on a piece. It is a great way to get a smooth surface on a piece without having
to sand for a long time. But hand tools take practice. You cannot just pick them up and use them the first time.
The number one thing to be aware of when preparing to hand plane is grain direction. Actually, it helps to pay attention when using power tools too. To determine the grain direction, look at the edge of the piece of wood. You can generally see the grain of the wood going toward a surface of the wood. Where it goes toward the surface of the wood, slanting a certain way, that is the direction of the grain of the wood. When gluing wood, be sure to glue all pieces with grain going in the same direction. When planing wood, be sure to plane in the direction of the grain.
There are several sizes of planes that are used for different purposes when planing the wood. The smaller planes are for smoothing the wood. The medium sized planes work to both smooth and flatten the wood. The long sized planes are used to flatten the wood. You generally start with the medium plane. Progress to the long plane and then use the small plane.
John said that planing wood was not an arm sport, but a whole body exercise. The mechanics of using a plane require that you use the body and legs to move as you are planing your piece. Your piece of wood will have either a convex (curved up) surface or a concave (curved down) surface. It may be ever so slightly but it will be there. You can check it with a straight edge. Then, start with the medium size plane, and go diagonally across the surface of the wood. If you go straight along the length of the wood, you would be just following the curve and not straightening the wood at all. You put your weight on the front of the plane, then evenly on theplane and then of the back.
A Tip from John: take a pencil and make marks all the way across the piece. You will be able to see when the surface is not being hit with the plane because the pencil marks will remain.
Secondly, you take the long flattening plane and again go diagonally across the piece. Take as light a cut as you can. If you were to make a hole in the piece by taking a deeper cut, then you would need to plane the rest of the board to come down to the bottom of that hole. John said you can plane a board faster than you can sand.
The final part of the process is to use the smoothing plane. Here you want to take off only very thin shavings. Be careful not to take off more than you want to. You are also more likely to go straight on the grain of the wood. Remember you piece is flattened by now. While John was talking and telling us how to best use the planes, he was demonstrating. At this point he passed around the piece he was working with. It was amazingly smooth and flat and had not taken that long to do.
A couple more hints from John. If you are planing for dimension, to get
a board down to a certain thickness, you need to mark with a pencil on
the edge of the board the place where you want to stop. He suggested planing
the piece down close to the mark on the edges first, then going diagonally
across the piece to get the desired thickness. And finally, if you are planing
the edges in preparation for gluing the pieces together, scribe a mark using
a straight edge and pencil to make a straight line. Then plane with the
two pieces of board together. Using the long flattening plane go the length
of the board. When you are finished, just fold the two pieces together and
they will work to glue up.
Alan Clapp
Norm Duncan was the winner of the Porter Cable random orbit finishing sander at the September meeting.
Chris Kraemer, owner of the new Woodcraft store located at 1725 South 108th
Street in West Allis, 607-6164, has generously donated an 8" slow speed grinder
for the October 6 raffle. The grinder is complete with 120 & 60 grit
grinding wheels. This popular sharpening tool will reduce your woodworking
costs by allowing you to sharpen those chisels rather than throwing them
away at the end of a project.
Renewal time is coming up soon. Forms will be sent out in mid-October. Please complete the questionnaires on the form and return it with your renewal fee.
Renewal forms, with checks, may be mailed to the name and address on the
form, or processed at the November Guild meeting. No renewal forms will
be processed at the December Holiday Season Dinner Party.
Jim Paulbeck
Ken Rasch conducted this workshop at his shop on August 24th. He demonstrated his box and show me how their three well-mannered children used it for their valuables. He makes many of these boxes which he donates to his church to raise money.
In making these boxes, one learns many new steps. Ken uses recycled lumber,
when available, and applies precision woodworking techniques to create
a precision shadow box. He was an outstanding instructor, and anyone interested
in making a precision shadow box will find this a rewarding experience.
Henry Yun
Saturday, September 11th, twelve Guild members gathered with their new, used and very used chisels and plane irons. The purpose of the gathering was to participate in a Saturday Morning Basics Sharpening Workshop conducted by John Petrovic and Walt Hadcock.
The morning began with a discussion of ëwhat is sharpí, ëthe steps required to sharpen a cutting edgeí and ëbasic metal propertiesí.
What is sharp? Random House defines sharp as ëhaving a thin cutting edge or fine point; well-adapted cutting or piercingí. John and Walt define sharp as the intersection of two mirrored surfaces. While this definition may not seem clear at this moment, it will become clearer as we proceed with this article.
The basic steps required for sharpening all cutting edges are: a) shaping: This step is only required when the tool is badly damaged; b) grinding: This step, much like shaping is only required wen the edge is badly damaged. c) sharpening, honing and polishing are the only steps that are generally required.
To better understand the quality and life expectancy of an edge, a short discussion on metal properties was held. The tool maker must always compromise between softer and harder steels (generally between Rockwell 50 to 60). Softer steels are more difficult to sharpen to a keen edge, but will last longer. The opposite is true for harder steels because they are more brittle.
The sharpening technique that John and Walt were proposing was ëSharpening on the Cheapí as the technique does not require expensive machinery, a collection of stones or jigs. The techniques requires six to eight sheets of emery paper of various grits, a piece of gloat glass and a few items to secure the emery paper to th glass and hold the glass in place. This system is also knows and The D&S Scary Sharp® System.
The group was relieved to learn that is a reasonably simple technique which requires a little patience and practice. The glass provided an extremely smooth flat surface to support the sandpaper. The process begins with 80 or 100 grit paper and progresses through 1500 or 2000 grit paper. Generally, each step doubles the grit until the highest grit s reached.
My personal project was a plane iron which had previously been sharpened using the traditional power grinder and various stones. Looking back, the iron was never very sharp. I began the process of sharpening my plane iron by first attaching a sheet of 80 grit paper to my glass with 3-M 77 spray-on adhesive (this adhesive function like contact cement, so only the paper back was sprayed).
Placing the back of the iron on the paper, I applied even downward pressure and moved the iron across the paper. When it appeared that the back was flat and smooth, it was coated with a colored marker, and the process was repeated until all the color was removed.The 80 grit paper was replaced with 120 grit and the process was repeated, followed by 220and 500 grits.
It was after the 500 grit that I discovered that my technique was unbalanced and I could not remove the color at one corner of the iron. My technique seems to apply more pressure to the leading edge, which left a low spot on the corner. This deflect appeared because the higher grit paper removed so little material. To remove the defect, I returned to 80 grit and polished the iron in two directions.
When the polishing reached the 500 grit level, the back of the iron took on a mirror-like finish. At this point, the quality of the finish could be checked by holding the back of the iron against your shirt and counting the number of threads. By the time 2000 grit was reached, the back of the iron had the shine of a quality mirror. The total time to polish the back of the plane iron was about 30 minutes, including the time needed to correct the defect.
With the back of the iron polished, we proceeded to polish the bevel, using the exact same process and grits of paper. The angle of the bevel in relation to the back is not extremely critical, but should be between 25 and 40°. What is important is that the polished bevel intersect the polished back. If done properly, there should be no reflection when sighting directly at the edge.
All this with no power tools, no oil, no water, and nearly no mess. I
would highly recommend the workshop for anyone wanting a clean and simple
sharpening technique. Additional information on the subject of sharpening
can be found in the following books and website: www.shavings.net; Restoring, Tuning and
Using Classic Woodworking Tools by Michael Dunbar; Complete Guide to Sharpening
by Leonard Lee .
Bruce Bogust
Just a Thank You to James Paulbeck for making a supply of plaster
tongues for the ëGolden Tongue Awardí plaques that we present
program speakers!
Ron Hinderman
Again it is time to plan for making toys for the upcoming December Holiday Season, and we have set a goal to exceed the 304 toys that we made last year.
Our Goal is to Make as Many Toys as Possible to Provide Gifts for Children in Need! With the large talented membership of our Guild this does not look like a problem. We have gathered plans which will enable each of us to participate. Two sets of plans are Table Saw Toys which consist of seven (7) small cars, all made from 3/4 inch stock, and require wheels and axles which the Guild has purchased at wholesale lot prices. (The Guild will sell these wheels and axles to you at cost.) The second series of toys are called 2 X 4 Tooters Plan. This plan consists of twelve (12) different toys made from 2X4 or 2X6 ends which can be found at any construction site, free of charge. Some of you have already signed up for plans of these series. If you were not at the last meeting and would like a set of plans, please call me at (414) 549-9614.
Plans available:
All toys must be finished with non-toxic finish such as water-based paint, acrylic, etc. The two series of toys (above) requiring wheels are Circle Saw Toys and 2X4 Tooters. The 2X4 units require 2 1/2 inch wheels with axle pegs sets costing $1.40 per set of four. Circle Saw Toys cost 84 cents per set of four.
If you have plans that you are willing to share, please bring them to the next meeting. They will be reproduced and put into the Guildís Toy File for use by other members. It's not too late to get plans and make a toy (toys) for some boy or girl that will be holed-up in a shelter for abused families at Christmas-time. Toys will be collected at the November Guild meeting and the December Holiday Season Dinner Party.
Remember: You are not required to make a toy in order to attend the dinner
party!
Bob Vincent
Looking Forward:
Looking forward to the year 2000, several changes will be taking place. We are attempting to arrange more tours and perhaps less workshops. A new approach to workshops is being proposed with ëLike Interest Group Meetingsí, also known as ëSIGsí Special Interest Groups or ëSIGsí. When each member declares his.her membership, their interest in woodworking is also indicated. If each member would sign up for hin/her major interest at a Guild Meeting, this information could be processed and meetings, workshops or get-togethers could be held for the sharing of information, projects, planning, etc. around a particular interest (example, scroll sawing). If any Guild member has other ideas for workshops, tours, etc, please let me know as soon as possible.
Upcoming Workshops
October: Space is still available in the Shop Cart Workshop being presented by Jay Hollingsworth on October 9 - 10, and again on October 16 - 17. See Jay at the October Guild meeting if you have any questions.
November: Donít forget the November meeting will be on Friday , November 5th, 1999. With the Starburst Veneering Workshop being held at Scott Stanwyckís shop on 6 and 7 of November.
Also in November we will finally be able to hold the Marquetry Workshop with Pete Kolettis. It will be on Saturday, 20 November. Lew Enderle has graciously volunteered his shop in West Bend. Sign-up is available at the October meeting. See Pete in action at Fillingerís on the 30th of October.
December: Scheduled December workshops include:
Woven Wood Star and Heart Christmas Decorations with Leila Crandall-Frink on Saturday, December 4th at the Washington Park Senior Center.
Turned Christmas Ornaments with Liz Rohde will be on December 11th at Lizís shop in Kewaskum.
Notice: The Hand Plane Tuning and Restoration workshop scheduled for Oct.
30, 1999 will be rescheduled for the year 2000.
Last Update: 9/28/1999
Web Author: Brisn D. Halligan
Copyright ©1997-2000 by Wisconsin Woodworkers Guild - ALL RIGHTS
RESERVED
